Why Canvas Matters | Tailored Truths Beneath the Surface
At Gangotra 1916, we believe that true sartorial harmony begins beneath the surface. The construction of a suit is not simply a technical decision, it is the architecture of elegance, shaping how a garment moves, breathes, and lives with its wearer.
Each construction method carries its own story. Whether it’s the bespoke intimacy of full canvas, the thoughtful engineering of our floating half canvas, or the elevated precision of semi-traditional tailoring, we guide our clients through these options with clarity and care.

Full Canvas
Our full canvas construction represents the highest tier of tailoring tradition. A layer of horsehair canvas is hand sewn into the entire front panel of the jacket, allowing it to drape naturally and mould to the body over time.
This method offers breathability, longevity and a silhouette that evolves with each wear, ideal for those who seek a suit that becomes a second skin.
Half Canvas
Our half canvas construction, meanwhile, is a masterclass in balance. It features a floating multi-layer chest piece, meaning the internal structure is sewn and not fused into the jacket. This allows for natural movement and shape retention across the chest.
Depending on the model, we use two to three layers of horsehair canvas, combined with a soft layer of felt, extending down to the closing button but stopping short of the lapel. The result is a sculpted form with a soft, elegant roll, refined, yet relaxed.
Semi Traditional
For those who appreciate structure with a touch more precision, our semi-traditional construction takes the concept of shape several steps further. Here, the canvas is extended into the lapels and secured not with glue, but with a hand imitated pique stitch.
This technique forms a strong, natural bond between the canvas and cloth, allowing the lapels to roll beautifully and with intention. It’s a method that blends modern industrial sewing with classic tailoring artistry, offering a jacket that feels both contemporary and timeless.

Why Canvas Matters
In the world of tailoring, the difference between a fused suit and a canvas constructed garment is not always visible to the untrained eye, but it is always felt. Fused suits are commonly found on the high street and mass produced for speed and cost efficiency, rely on glue to bond the internal structure to the outer fabric.
While this method allows for rapid production, it sacrifices breathability, longevity, and the graceful ageing that defines true craftsmanship. Over time, fused garments often lose their shape and the glue may bubble or delaminate, revealing the compromise beneath the surface.
By contrast, our canvas constructions, whether full, half or semi-traditional, are engineered to honour the body, the cloth and the craft. Each layer is sewn, not glued, allowing the suit to breathe, move and mould to the wearer with time. These techniques are not shortcuts, they are signatures of our quality, designed to last and to elevate.
At Gangotra 1916, we don’t build garments for the rack, we craft them for the man. For the moment, for the memory and in every stitch, we offer something far superior to what you’ll find off the peg, a perfect Made to Measure suit that lives with you, not just on you.